Friday, August 22, 2008

elevenmile canyon / spray cave/boulder




















1. anger management v11 - start sitting on a huge matched undercling, climb through a few juggy flakes and bust right to good left hand sidepulls and an evil right hand sidepull crimp to gain the lip and top out. fairly classic.

2. standard left v4ish - start as for anger management and traverse obvious jug flakes to a fairly high exit above the irregular, rocky landing. try to avoid the guano and life will be better. classic.

3. standard right v4ish - start crouching with jug flakes a few feet right of standard left and join standard left. classic.

4. spray arete v7ish - start crouching deep in the dihedral, gastoning on opposite sides of the dihedral, move to a few incut holds to toss to the sloping ledge feature, traverse that to a right hand deadpoint to a small, but comfortable hold and lock it down to join the arete and exit. classic.

5. head banger v7ish - start as for spray arete but after the right hand deadpoint, continue to traverse low and right, gaining an evil little slotty incut in the last dihedral, before the top out. a tojo version of this, which gives it its name, off routes the foot ledge to finish the same, which is substantially burlier and may crack your dome if you blow the crimp or rip it off the wall.

Friday, February 15, 2008

coming soon